Each year, about 100 million monarch butterflies travel as far as 2,500 miles from the eastern United States and even southern Canada to just five or six spots in the mountains about a three-hour drive northwest of Mexico City. I know that many of you have seen this incredible sight yourselves, and today, Barbara and I joined you and the other lucky people who have enjoyed this experience.
We began yesterday (February 28) by boarding a 1st class bus in Moriela, and riding 3 hours southeast to the small town of Zita′cuaro. These buses are much more comfortable than current coach class airline seats, and the trip cost just $7 each. Unfortunately, the great value did not extend to our hotel here, which is a total rip-off. Pete Vogt suggested a much better hotel, but it was full, so we ended up at Villa Monarca Inn. This place makes a Motel 6 look luxurious, and is grossly overpriced! The rooms do not even have heat!
We began yesterday (February 28) by boarding a 1st class bus in Moriela, and riding 3 hours southeast to the small town of Zita′cuaro. These buses are much more comfortable than current coach class airline seats, and the trip cost just $7 each. Unfortunately, the great value did not extend to our hotel here, which is a total rip-off. Pete Vogt suggested a much better hotel, but it was full, so we ended up at Villa Monarca Inn. This place makes a Motel 6 look luxurious, and is grossly overpriced! The rooms do not even have heat!
However, the staff is very friendly, and they gave us extra blankets and even a small electric heater from the office. The hotel staff also arranged a taxi with an English speaking driver, Ignacio, who added his own sparkle to the day. Ignacio was born in Zita′cuaro, but has lived in Los Angeles and Portland since he was twelve. He’s back in Mexico to settle his parents’ estate, and is experiencing his own culture shock. He is an American through and through, despite his birthplace.
For an hour, Ignacio drove us higher and higher into the dramatic mountains that rise above Zita′cuaro. Finally, we arrived at Sanctuario Sierra Chincua, where the paved road ends. The land is owned cooperatively by the local indigenous people, and they’ve simply put a rope across the road and charge a small fee for the vehicle and each person. At this point, we picked up a “local” guide, David, who had lived in Houston for several years, and also spoke excellent English. Actually, we’re finding it fairly common that local people have worked in the US, and speak English far better than we speak Spanish.
After another fifteen minutes climbing higher into the mountains on a dirt road, we left the car, and began the real adventure. When we found out that Ignacio, our driver, had never proceeded beyond the parking lot, we convinced him to go with us by offering to rent a horse for him to ride along with us. Then, to Ignacio’s great surprise and, I think, dismay, David, the local guide, recommended that we walk in to the actual site of the butterflies and ride the horses out.
The walk through the forest of pines and oyemel trees was lovely, but strenuous. It is the oyemel trees and the many indigenous plants such as milkweed that attract the butterflies to these mountains. But the real fun was the constant flow of comic quips from our “city boy” Ignacio, who reminded any nearby snakes that he was really a local and that they should bite the Gringos if a meal was required.
After another fifteen minutes climbing higher into the mountains on a dirt road, we left the car, and began the real adventure. When we found out that Ignacio, our driver, had never proceeded beyond the parking lot, we convinced him to go with us by offering to rent a horse for him to ride along with us. Then, to Ignacio’s great surprise and, I think, dismay, David, the local guide, recommended that we walk in to the actual site of the butterflies and ride the horses out.
The walk through the forest of pines and oyemel trees was lovely, but strenuous. It is the oyemel trees and the many indigenous plants such as milkweed that attract the butterflies to these mountains. But the real fun was the constant flow of comic quips from our “city boy” Ignacio, who reminded any nearby snakes that he was really a local and that they should bite the Gringos if a meal was required.
Finally we began to see the beautiful orange and black flutters of the Monarchs – at first, just a few, and then the bushes and air were full of these delicate creatures. In the distance, several trees were literally covered with butterflies huddled together to keep warm. We watched in delight as they left the trees to search for water and nectar from the local wildflowers.
After an hour, it was time to saddle up and ride back to the car.
At this point, we learned that Ignacio had never ridden a horse. Being quite overweight, he was quite a sight on the small horses that work this trail. At several especially steep slopes, Ignacio wondered aloud how he had ever been convinced to go on this adventure, when he could have happily stayed with his taxi and taken a nap.
At the end of the trail, Ignacio gratefully exchanged his horse for his taxi, and drove Barbara and I back down the mountain. We sat in the back seat smiling from the unique experience with the butterflies and the laughter we had enjoyed with our new friend Ignacio.
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